It's All About the Rocks

Don't get me wrong here—the sterling work is where the real artistry comes in. But closer examination of Native American works show that the stone was the inspiration for the piece, and the sterling work is often designed around it. This is the case when a stone 'speaks' to the artisan.

Certain mines produce stones that are soft, yet stable, and are easily carved to fit into a particular style of jewelry. Zuni Petit Point and Needle Point pieces are almost exclusively done using Sleeping Beauty mine stones for this reason. Their sky blue color and absence of matrix make for some pretty amazing displays.

Many mines produced for a short period and some rendered stones that are easily identified, but there are so many mines that have been in operation for decades, the different turquoise veins that are tapped will often have stones of drastically varying characteristics. This can make stone identification difficult as one mine will produce stones very similar to another.

There are a few exceptions; turquoise from the Lander Blue mine, the #8 mine, the Bisbee mine and a few others, have an unmistakable matrix and color as the veins of the mine continually produce turquoise of the same look and quality. The desire for this type of stone is high, with Lander Blue being the most expensive turquoise on the market due to the low production rate of the mine and the unusual matrix and color of the stones. As you might guess, we don't find a lot of Lander pieces, but when we do, they sell very quickly.

Turquoise is such a wonderful and time honored offering from the earth, its importance in Native American works is highly significant, and when a piece is true to the stone, it increases its value considerably. We see a lot of work and it's always disappointing to see sterling work that was obviously done with great care, only to have an inferior stone slapped into it. But turquoise prices, especially for high-grade stones, have proven prohibitive to artisan's that produce a lot of work. It's the pieces that are done by artisans with little concern for mass production that invariably incorporate quality stones. These are the pieces we present on the website.

Stone selection is a major factor in the pieces we offer, and turquoise that has been treated / stabilized is shied away from—its color and matrix are no longer natural and it gives the stones a plastic appearance. The stabilization process became popular in the 1950s as a way to offer more stones to the jewelry manufacturing industry—the process was used on inferior grade materials that were prone to breaking, and its still being done today, with the stones being incorporated into mass produced jewelry.

We do the best we can when identifying natural turquoise stones, and will not give a definitive identification unless we're certain of their origin, which is often the case. There are just too many variations produced by a single source to say with absolute certainty in some instances, and misleading our buyers is simply not an option. The pieces we offer incorporate superior stones, many being gem quality, from high-grade sources. There's just no reason to do it any other way.

South of the Border

William Spratling moved to Mexico in 1929 after nine years as a writer and architectural student in New Orleans, where he associated with literary colony types like Faulkner, Farge, Blom and many others. Spratling's interest in the artisans of Mexico led to his promotion of a gallery show for the works of Diego Rivera, the first Mexican art presentation in the US.

Dwight Morrow, a US Ambassador, pointed out that the town of Taxco was a silver mining center, had been for centuries, but there was a lack of art being produced in the area. Spratling's design background was ample and he subsequently hired an experienced goldsmith to join him in Taxco and begin producing his jewelry designs. Once it was apparent that these works were desirable in the states, several artisans were employed to increase production.

Sadly, Spratling opened his company to private investors and eventually lost control of “Spratling y Artesanos” in 1946. But what he had started flourished dramatically and Mexican jewelry design was available throughout America in abundance, due to his efforts.

I often acquire Mexican produced pieces as many of them are beautifully designed and constructed. Link bracelets like this bulky dyed quartz Bracelet, probably from the 1940s, are superb examples of the quality work coming out of Mexico. The linking of large sterling panels was a Spratling innovation and this Lapis Inlay bracelet incorporates Aztec design elements, thick, sturdy construction and was undoubtedly fashioned after a Spratling design. This Taxco artisan hallmarked Wave design bracelet is just superb and really speaks to the talent of the silversmith. Mexican link bracelet design became very bold as time went on as seen in this 4 link bracelet featuring Amethyst stones and chisel chased design elements.

Ornate multi-layered sterling designs were popular with the Taxco area artisans and many are executed so beautifully and with such attention to detail, that they increased demand for Mexican jewelry, like this 1930s Rose Design bracelet. Finding one is this condition is rare and it's a shining example of detailed silversmithing. This cross pendant, hallmarked by a Taxco artisan, incorporates ornate layering and a lapis centerpiece, as well as linking techniques.

Often times Taxco artisans would use a higher grade of silver due to it's availability. This 950 silver link necklace with it's dyed stones is a great example of using silver of a higher grade than sterling and following link design edicts established by Spratling.

Art Deco designs were produced in great quantities when Mexican jewelry was being developed. This 1930s-40s set of Green Glass Dangle earring, probably by renowned artisan Pedro Castillo are a wonderful handcrafted example. This boldly designed Art Deco pin can also be used as a pendant by attaching a chain to the delicate loops and it's Art Deco design is “over the top.”

A style came out of the Taxco area in the 1930s resembling Native American repousse work. The silver would be hammered into wooden molds of Mexican icons, and attached to a flat backing plate. The wood rendered a much “softer” edge than that of Native American repousse work and this Aztec design influenced, large format pin is a superb example of this technique.

We will continue to offer high quality Mexican works. Their history is intriguing, the craftsmanship is often outstanding and the bold nature of the work is a lot of fun to wear.